AC CIRCUITS ARE DANGEROUS AND MISTAKES CAN CAUSE INJURY OR DEATH.,,,,, M4 threaded K-type thermocouple (widely available from Amazon, etc as a replacement part for 3D printers), 128x64 I2C OLED screen (substitute any screen you prefer but you'll need to update the code for your specific unit). I print with PLA filament, which has a much lower melting temperature than the plastic that Lego uses. I know what I will be trying tomorrow , Hi, Thank you for making it. The cup warmer does seem a bit hotter than before (but have only used twice since installing, so Ill have to pay attention). US based Gaggiuino tailored print service; International print shop . Use Git or checkout with SVN using the web URL. Thanks for putting it together, this has helped me a lot in figuring out most of my doubts with a PID project for a Gaggia. Thank you for your time. I got the white plastic in one of the stock connectors a bit burned, the plastic looks brown in some areas and a bit melted. START NOW KIT-GG Installation Guide Version 1.3 Auber Instruments, 730 Culworth Manor, Alpharetta, GA 30022 e-mail: Tel: 770-569-8420 This is a PID controller kit installation guide distributed solely to our clients, who have purchased the KIT-GG kit. Specifications : Hi Chris. Does the wiring youve supplied automatically shut the PID unit off when you engage the steam switch? And anything is going to be a huge improvement over the thermostat that the PID replaces. A tag already exists with the provided branch name. You could approach this two ways. When I started steaming at that point thermostat never shut down the boiler because temperature did not reach to limit of thermostat. Hi Brian. The same can be done with the REX C100 but you need one with all 8 screw terminals (the second SSR for steam uses the alarm function which needs terminals #6 and #7) and these two are missing on some REXs. Anyway, thank you Chris. Other than that mine was a fairly straightforward procedure with no trouble at all. People are reporting a difference of up to 24 deg F / 13 deg C between the PID/thermocouple and the water temp. Did you have any problems or stumbled upon anything unexpected? Range: -1999 to 9999 (depends on the input signal) Have had the parts sitting around for months and no time to install! r . It doesnt matter which thermostat wire is connected to which of the AC terminals on the solid state relay. I am glad you solved the problem, Murat. I have found this PID kit here on Ali express and I think its the same one you fitted can you please tell me if this one is good to go, they got a 3 piece option and a 4 piece option so dont know which, I think the 4 piece option is because it includes a heat sink that you dont mention, so I assume I wont be needing it, can you please advise. In a nutshell, the Gaggia Classic thermostat is replaced by the combination of the the thermocouple, the PID, and the solid state relay. Learn more. Hi Justin. This is really a DIY project. I was like WTF. You will be working with potentially lethal mains voltages. Nikola. The C-100 can accommodate only one sensor/SSR, so you would only set it for brew temperature. I would like to use it for steaming ONLY. Contrary to the Gaggia circuit diagram, Black is live, White is neutral, a minor issue. Do you think that REX-C100FK02-V*EN (designed for K-type thermocouple) is compatible with RTD (PT100) and is not going to create long-term problems with the machine/setup? Hi Chris, I am gathering / ordering the parts specified and was surprised to find out the price for 3d printing price spiked. Thus brewing circuit needs to be connected directly to the heating element, not over steaming circuit. Plug in a mains-rated cable connected to a piggyback spade connector, and then plug the original switched mains cable into the piggyback. Please be sensible and install a grommet anyway! You'll need the following parts, as well as basic soldering tools/skills and access to a 3D printer (if you choose to use the included .stl files). I have briefly thought about pre-infusion but the REX C-100 is not capable of this. You can only buy them as spare parts. Remove the thermostat. This resulted in the PID not powering up even though the machine did. The PID unit did not turn on using the same terminal of your machine. If youre not comfortable installing this yourself, and taking on any followup maintenance, I think you would be much better off purchasing a machine that comes with a PID from the factory. Either way, you are looking at a lot more complexity and cost. That is indeed not normal. Screen Enclosure; Internal Component Housing; Additional Gaggiuino models can be found in the Gaggiuino Model Collection or on Discord in the #mod-3d-design-ideas channel. Mounting Dimension: DIN: 1/16 (48mmX48mmX80mm) In a properly wired North American outlet, the neutral wire is white, and the hot/load wire is black (ground is green). Do you observe the same temperature ranges? Its actually reading too high.. 98 deg against 92deg measured by both my oven thermometers. Hi Murat, May I have your help about finding out which ones I should get from Shades? Yes it is normal for the brew light to blink like this after you install a PID. Chris thank you so much. Thanks in advance! Thanks so much for the awesome guide! Without offset the range is between 109-159, still too low. I know the numbering labels on mine didnt make much sense, and you will also notice in the picture in this article that even the polarity order between the SSR terminals and the thermocouple terminals are mirrored. Main Output: SSR: Open circuit: 4V, Closed Circuit: 24V40mA DC The boiler had been installed in such a way that it had pinched/nearly severed the upstream wire on the brew light. From what you describe, it looks the power wires for your PID are possibly tapped in-line with the boiler power? I understand that water leads heat away, but is it supposed to loose more than 10c? Remove the top of the machine and locate the boiler thermal switch. No gross taste. best part it is inexpensive and as easy as OPV mod, here are the links: There are no holes in the printed parts for the wiring between the PID and espresso machine, you'll need to decide where you want these holes and drill them yourself. It is a really tight fit to get the REX C-100 PID inside the machine. When I got my C100 the thermocouple was M6, i ended up buying an m4 brass bolt drilling it out, and inserting the thermo with some glue and heatshrink on it and it works like magic added some thermal paste. If you used piggyback connectors, it should be a quick job to move the right one over to the correct switch terminal. Thanks. Thanks. So far the temp range Ive seen when the heater cycles on/off (after ~30 mins of warming up) is ~90C to ~97C. Using two 5-8 cm pieces of properly-rated wire (15 amps for North America), make two connectors to connect the thermostat wires to the AC terminals of the solid state relay. Opciones de compra y productos Add-on . I have few questions for you about this setup. And once you start considering adding in a power supply, you might as well go for a PID. 3-Connect the other cable to the terminal on the on off switch, which is on top of or below the Live cable. I think this is why using a separate SSR and controller is the only way to go. Most likely will work on the Silvia as well. Good idea Chris. I was initially concerned about my wiring (and my GFI) but its reassuring to hear you have the same side effects. 295.00 . I cant see how this wouldnt be a thermostat problem, unless you somehow wired the steam thermostat into the PID, but you would have gone way beyond this walkthrough to do that. THIS ASSUMES YOUR COMPETENT WORKING WITH AC CIRCUITS. Pull the two wires that you removed from the thermostat up to the top of the machine, near the rest of the wires that run from the front to the back of the machine. Required fields are marked *. Ive been having trouble steaming milk lately, and wonder if there might be something wrong with the thermostat in my machine, wiring problems extending to this as well, or the steam valve might finally be needing a replacement. 102 is even 3 degrees below my brew temperature. The C-100 will fit in vertically, with the screen facing up. did the REX-100 require most of the default setting to be changed or is it similar to changing like shades PID or Auber PID. Coffee Sensor Gaggia Classic or Pro Tray and grids. Have you gone through the (three) menus on the pid , using the instructions of your pid. Approach 1: Follow my writeup, adapting it to your models peculiarities, and then set the PID temperature to your preferred steam temperature. My only concern is that Mr Shades has two types of SSR units 40AA and 40DA. 15,00 . I have couple of concerns with this setup and would like to kindly ask for your opinion: 1. The microfoam created by the commercial steam wand is tight enough for high quality latte art. Test that everything is working before closing the machine back up. But nothing prevents you from using the PID and thermocouple as a temperature indicator. I adjusted the calibration offset on the PID +5.5 degrees to read 212 degrees.Have you any suggestions of more accurately calibrating the PID and TC? A cheap multimeter is all you need. It shows that neutral cables coming from thermostats are connecting each other under the steam switch but mine are connected under the main switch. Nevertheless, it will take some time to get it and make a change of the temperature sensor. 40A SSR Solid state relay included Free delivery for many products! sign in When the PID signals the SSR, as indicated by the brew ready light and the output led on the PID, the pressure coming out of the pump decreases, and then increases again after the PID out to the SSR turns off. Mr Shades is selling many small items (piggyback, spade, thermal paste, power cable, rubber grommet etc.) Ill verify the cable, its one of the cables that came with the machine, so it could likely be the strands have slowly burned with time and just needs cutting and re-crimping, as you mention. Hi Dennis. You should now have two mains wires, two 12 volt wires, and the shielded thermocouple wire running out of the back of the Classic. It has worked without issue so far, and maybe thats bound to happen to the plastic as current goes through and it gets old, but would love to hear other opinions. Take your time, think it through, and be patient. It will depend on the beans you use, and your palate. You wont need the heat sink, the GCs case does that job for you. For more information, please see our Wire colors and positions seem to vary. If youre following a recipe that calls for a specific water temperature, then it would be easier to do this with an offset at the PID. Again, as above, run this cable out the back, and leave it unterminated and longer than needed. Its getting very hot indeed so turned it off. Double check that this is the neutral! I can do a more detailed writeup of what Ive done if anyone feels like helping me find out whats not working properly! Some shops are quoting $80.00 for the PID enclosure + lid. You can use the same 18 gauge wire between the heating element and the SSR. My theory at the moment would be that due to the PID control the heater is sometimes on at higher temperatures. Check for wire that might have been too aggressively stripped, where some of the conductor might have also been cut away. Re-attach the boiler with the four bolts, re-attach the steam wand, push on the steam knob, and put the lid assembly back on, without forgetting to re-connect the two ground wires. The only cable arrangement I had to change after installing the PID was switching those cables in the back, the one on the top I had to put in the bottom, and the one on the bottom in the top, otherwise the PID would stay on when the machine was off, and off when the machine was on. It will void your warranty, the possibility for making errors or breaking things during installation is too high, and the amount of time it takes would make it cost prohibitive. So the above instructions might not apply to the UK, I have the GC2019 but the live connection was the top right on the power switch when switched on, bottom left caused the PID to flicker and not work as expected, I fixed my issue but now the PID readout is 103 Dec but the water is 80 degrees, didnt think it would be off by this much. Its stimulated a lot of interesting discussion! The MCP9600 board is fastened with a screw to the small ledge inside the 3D printed box. The thermocouple connects to terminals 6 and 7. I am glad this article helped. If you can share a picture of it, or a link, I can add it to the article. I managed the brew side PID and digging in for the steaming side, using PID alarm function of my XMT 7100 unit. . Plug in a mains-rated wire connected to a piggyback spade connector, and then plug the original neutral cable into the piggyback. When the steam switch is on, the PID stays on but because the boiler temperature in steam mode is much higher than the brew temperature of the PID, the PID provides no power to the SSR and heating element. To set the target temperature, press the Set button on the front of the panel. About 60cm of 1mm2 (17AWG) cable to deliver power from the Gaggia to the PID 3. D 9. Most assembly guides recommend using some thermal paste between the SSR and the Classic to ensure that any heat from the SSR is dumped to the chassis. I am only using the Rex temporarily while working on a project with a Raspberry Pi (and the cost of the Rex was only a couple dollars when ordering the SSR), otherwise I would reprint the entire enclosure with the hooks built in. You need at least 20 amps. Hi David. I think one of either is the one which Shades of Coffee is using. Then use the cursor keys to select the digits to increase and decrease. More to explore . This is sold on amazon Applications You can use the sensor reading on the PID display to know when to start steaming. I do not suggest autotuning for this device because there is a huge improvement in temperature stability if you do the tuning by yourself. You signed in with another tab or window. I had to manually enable autotuning on my REX-C100 and i dont know if other values are screwed up or if its something else, since it really does seem like the boiler is getting power in bypass of whatever the PID is doing. Hi Chris, Remove the portafilter and water tank. It has been working flawless for the most part, but seen a few issues that havent seen before. Do you think its going to blow my machine if I dont do correctly? Run the TC leads out through the back of the machine and into the PID, attaching to the MCP9600. I bought the PiD from Amazon referenced in a comment above and its working fine. For the melted connector plastic, thats a sign of either a wire or a connector that is carrying too much current for its rating, or most likely, a connection between the wire and connector that is not as solid as it should be.