This oil obtained from ambrette seedswhich come from hibiscushas a musk-like odor. How cool is that? ), Other ingredients, too like extracts of ambrette seed, galbanum and angelica root can also deliver a musky sensuality to a perfume. Guerlain Idylle This native of Central and South Asia, a relative of hops, is now probably grown in every country of the world (albeit quite often in attics under gro-lights). Where she touched the ground, beautiful iris flowers grew out of her footprints. Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture But theres one snag with this exquisite material: its been blacklisted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) as a potential irritant, its use restricted by European regulation to 0.1% in perfume compositions that are applied to the skin a restriction which has sent noses into tailspins in labs across the world, as they were forced to remove or reduce this lynchpin ingredient in their often very famous formulations. Goutal ParisMyrrhe Ardente Chanel Coco From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. ", Organic compounds are present in many natural materialsthat can be synthesized artificially, such as the aliphatic aldehydes used to give sparkle to Chanel No. If not, they travel further down the gut and are covered in ambergris: a sticky, gelatinous material which dries to a lump with a resinous texture and then floats on the surface, ending up on beaches in places like South Africa, the East Indies, China, Japan, New Zealand even Dorset. Ormonde Jayme Taif. Theyre often eaten raw, to enjoy the sweet/sour flavour blend from the thin rind, contrasted with the juicy flesh. Adding to the cocktail of perfume ingredients, thats what, with its citrussy, tart-sweet fruitiness. But the ingredient perfumers weave, mostly into floral fragrances, is generally a synthetic replica. As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'Freesia in perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell is gorgeous.' Aldehydes may be found in natural materials rose, citronella, cinnamon bark and orange rind, for instance but are also a family of synthetic chemicals, formed (heres the science bit) by the partial oxidation of primary alcohols. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. With the current frenzy for exotic cocktails, chances are you may tasted wormwood (Artemisia absinthum) the key ingredient in absinthe, a drink that was for years banned in France but is now very much in vogue. Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately. bellflowers offer up an essential oil which has been described as reminiscent of a clear spring day. These apparently delicate flowers - a.k.a. It has an abstract quality and has become widely used as a base note, in more complex perfumes. This flowering shrub pulses out its potent scent very powerfully, in its native west Africa. Frederic Malle Lys Mediterane, A hugely precious ingredient, this with a heart-stopping price-tag. "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender Fendi Palazzo Adding an ethereal veil of softly charming fresh-airiness to a fragrance, we invite you to explore this so-pretty ingredient in your next perfume Amouage Blossom Love (There is a really well-researched, well-written article on aldehydes on the Perfume Shrine blog, if youd like the science bit in much more depth click here). Though reminiscent of fennel and aniseed, Glycyrrhiza glabra is not actually related to them, however. The fields to produce this beautiful rose near Grasse are limited therefore the quantity available is quite low making it yield a high price.". And there is a quality that says "bathroom, used, not cleaned for a while", and so much more. The fruit is the size of an orange, with a yellow-green colour similar to a lemon. Osmanthus also works beautifully in leathery, suede-like scents, as well as florals. Floris Edwardian Bouquet Agonist Blue North, Whoosh! Philosophy Love ', Atelier Cologne rose Anonyme Its warm, rich, woody-ambery, adding a swirl of amber sweetness and hint-of-tobacco to fragrances. ), Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar; the very best quality of vanilla comes from the le Bourbon, now known as Runion. In Victorian times, tuberose symbolised dangerous pleasure and voluptuousness and thats pretty much what perfumers are aiming for, when they use it. Little darling. 'The happiness of that afternoon was already fixed in her mind, and always would the scent of freesia return it to her mental sight, for among the roses and violets and lilies and wall-lowers, the smell of freesia penetrated, as a melody stands out from its accompaniment, and gave her the most pleasure.' (Interior decorators, as well as perfumers, also love ginger for the sheer architecture of the plants. So theres some suggestion that datura, or angels trumpet, is used mostly for its mythical status rather than any unique aromatic qualities. When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. Dior Miss Dior Its one of those Marmite perfumery ingredients, which people either swoon over or clutch their pearls and scream while avoiding at all costs. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Boucheron Jaipur Saphir Soft, floaty, feminine: this so-pretty floral note has just a whisper of actual peachy fruitiness about it. Superb floraliser. "Crystalline in form and snow-white in color, coumarins presence in fragrances is ubiquitous. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum WebAcetoin Agarwood Agave amica Alpha-isomethyl ionone Ambergris Ambrein Ambroxide Aroma compound Artemisia pallens B Balm of Gilead Balsam of Peru Bdellium Benzoin Crabtree & Evelyn Sandalwood Although its called grey amber (ambergris), its not to be confused with amber. Because the Sequoia sempervirens tree is endangered, however through loss of habit and over-logging chances are its a fantasy sequoia. An Asian evergreen tree with fragrant flowers, the oil of which is used in expensive floral perfumes. What is it? As with all roses, its important to harvest Taif roses early in the morning, before the heat of the day destroys the precious essential oils. Yves Saint Laurent Elle. Balenciaga Balenciaga Paris She loved it. The Scented Letter 'Fragrance For A New You' (Print Edition), We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -. The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. Guerlain Insolence With its hints of plum and peach, and a touch of lush green, mangos often to be found alongside floral notes in the fruity-floral compositions which have become so popular in recent years. Penhaligons Sartorial, As youd imagine, brown sugar adds sweetness to our perfumes in just the same way as it does to cereals, cakes, candies. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. "It provides an indescribable, underlying animalic note that allures to the primal senses.". Tart and sweet. But its under a bit of a cloud, perfume-wise. Unusually for a perfume ingredient youll quite often see it listed on the back of the carton which your fragrance bottle is packaged in: eugenols use is now restricted in perfumery, as its been known to cause allergies in some people, so it must be mentioned on perfume ingredients lists to alert them. The task of the rose-picker is to pick the dew-drenched blooms before 10 a.m. at the latest, when the sun evaporates their exquisite magic. ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. Dior Dune (Nobodys quite sure where the first flowers were grown; some believe it originated in Persia, and made its way to China via the Silk Route.). Mostly, its used in eastern and ambre perfumes, chypres and fougres but pops up in one very famous fragrance (see below). As with many other fruit notes, kiwis enjoying a moment in the sun thanks to the current fashion for fruity-floral scents. And its controversial: the original musk came from a sex gland secretion from a specific a species of deer, the Tibetan musk deer, which became endangered - though since 1979 this creature has happily now protected by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). By Kilian Love by Kilian ', Boucheron Boucheron Bamboo is of course also linked with Asian culture: its the Chinese symbol of longevity, while in India its a symbol of friendship. It isnt just the fruit thats used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances and lately, theres been a trend to using something called an apple tree note: in fact, a synthetic, fantasy ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. Lancme Trsor Bobbi Brown Bath Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Grain des Plaisir Gwen Stefani L 5 its airy overture: it tethers the creation). Once upon a time, frangipani was the name of an actual perfume produced by an aristocratic Roman Renaissance family by the name of Frangipani, and created by mixing orris (iris root), spices, civet and musk. Marc Jacobs Blush. According to the Bible, fig leaves preserved the modesty of Adam and Eve. Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret Theyre also edible, should you ever find yourself in front of the actual tree (Robinia pseudoacacia). (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) Frederic Malle Carnal Flower In reality, rosewater is the poor relation of the true rose scent, from the oil thats so essential a component of the perfumes which today send our senses into a delicious spin. Celine Dion Celine Dion Givenchy Organza But we happen to adore it, Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. Beeswax also works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, volatile notes. (Hugh de Slincourt wrote that, in The Way Things Happen.). (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri.). ", Illolahia adds that, due to the cost and supply, "natural oud oil is used sparingly in Anglo perfumes and is generally reserved for niche or luxury fragrances. Chanel Coco But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! During the Roman Empire, huge quantities of frankincense made their way to Rome from Arabia. Floris A Rose For Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. Then the leaves are stripped and placed into woven baskets, where a process of fermentation takes place that releases the incomparable fragrance. Marigolds the name comes from the phrase Marys gold, and refers to the Virgin Mary are members of the sunflower family, grown throughout the world. COUMARIN. Which is definitely the only instance of a plant getting its name from an actual fragrance: its far more usually the other way round, ChantecailleFrangipane When it is fresh, it is blackish in color and smells quite foul. This member of the citrus family is native to south Asia and has long been cultivated in Japan, Taiwan and the Philippines, too. An animalistic secretion from the Castor beaver used to impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance, it is often reproduced synthetically. Most of us are unlikely to smell it growing wild, but apparently its deliciously, delicately sweet, in flower form. Short for rumbullion or rumbustion, slang words which meant tumult or uproar (which can be what happens after one rum cocktail too many, even now). Richard E. Grant Jack, It sounds synthetic. An essential oil can be extracted from that rind, though (as well as the white flowers) producing a fragrance thats more complex than a normal orange: sweet/tart, with hints of lemon and pine. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce oudh, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Next time youre biting into a date that dried fruit, which conjures up images of oases, palm trees (and just possibly camels) have a sniff, first. Although linden - also known as tilleul in perfumery - can be extracted from the dried flowers, its usually recreated synthetically: beautifully sweet, exhilarating, bright as a summers day. Van Cleef & ArpelsCologne Noir. The best ingredients used to manufacture fragrance will ideally be natural, following a common mantra in menswear that natural is almost always best. An annual-flowering member of the borage family, also known as cherry pie flower, youll often find Heliotropium arborescens on sale in nurseries and garden centres for summer bedding (and you can create a wonderfully scented display with the plants, which butterflies will also love). "Jasmine notes are powerful, green fruity facets reminiscent of honeysuckle. When you see opium listed as a fragrance note, it implies something mischievous and mysterious about the perfume itself. Put a few leaves of lemon verbena, or Aloysia triphylla, in a cup, add boiling water and youve an incredibly refreshing drink. Chanel No. (It also helps to develop rose notes, in soap-making.). Salts a flavour. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. Honeyed and hay-like are other descriptions that perfumers give to saffron, which works especially well in Ambre-type perfumes. Oakmoss Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, and marine algae-like note," says perfumer Nicole Mancini. LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a LAube Oscar de la Renta Oscar Goutal Paris Vanille Exquise The zest of this tree's fruit is used to create citrus fragrance notes. Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial Down the years, those have been harnessed in rituals to induce a hallucinogenic state which allowed mere mortals to connect with the Gods (so legend has it). Do you love licorice? So: how come rosewood still turns up on ingredients list? Preceding the berries come green-and-purple-tinged bell-shaped flowers which do offer up a delicate scent but the sweet, subtly floral belladonna note used in fragrances is generally synthetic. No, not really suede but perfumers can recreate the suedes enveloping sensuality, in perfumery using synthetic ingredients. Diptyque LAutre Dior Diorissimo Certainly no hot-blooded Roman, homesick for a city where rosewater bubbled through the fountains, awnings soaked in rose oil shielded VIPs in public amphitheatres from the baking sun, pillows and mattresses were stuffed with rosepetals (the better to propel the weary towards dreamland) and where rose garlands were the ultimate Roman must-have status symbol. Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Runion and the Comoro Islands. Almost spicy, so green and sweet, with hints of lemon: thats lily of the valley and a more spring-like scent its hard to imagine. Tom Ford Black Orchid (It clearly has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia.) An oil from the Indian sandal tree, sandalwood is one of the oldest known perfumery ingredients, that is commonly used as a base note. Yves Saint Laurent La Collection Yvresse. Youll find it in a handful of creamy, floral feminine fragrances. Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). The soft, sweet, pretty-pretty powderiness of blossoms from the flowering Prunus so prized in Japan are expected to start turning up in many more fragrances, as perfume starts to look East in earnest. Nina Ricci Nina Fantasy Cerruti 1881 A Far Eastern flower, a member of the lilac and olive family: known as Kwei Hwa or Mo Hsi, its been used there to fragrance tea and other drinks, as well as jam. Theres a fog of confusion about amber, and ambergris. The essential oil itself is produced from the fruits skin: you get a hint of how this happens when you tear into a mandarin, and the oil scents your hands. Patchouli is often used as a base note. Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. Woods of Windsor Lily of the Valley How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? In China and Japan, its a national emblem and known as the king of the flowers. (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak Serge Lutens Arabie The key aroma compound in sweet orange oil, meanwhile, is something called d-limonene and its also a sensitiser for some people, meaning it has to be listed (albeit in the teensiest writing) on labels. But with zero calories. Because cinnamon bark oil is a sensitiser and as such, you may cinnamates on perfume packaging, as a warning where natural cinnamons used, its likely to have been distilled from the leaves and twigs. ), and you might get whispers of a floral note, with fruity undertones somewhere mid-way between a rose and a nectarine. There are two types of civet: one African (its habitat spans Ethiopia through to South Africa), and Indian, native to Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. Rich and heady, tiar is also used to create monoi oil (familiar from many suntanning products), by macerating the flowers in coconut oil. Its extraordinary that a single plant can smell so different, depending on where its grown. (Nectarine goes particularly well with fruity notes, actually.) Contrary to myth, laurel is no relation to the bay used in the traditional spicy West Indian aftershave, Bay Rum though it can be found in plenty of masculine fragrances, as well as feminine chypres. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Amouroud Silk Route You may be able to make it out West Indian bay itself among the cinnamon, oil of cloves, citrus and other spice oils. PS A relative of vetiver, Vetiveria nigritina, is also found in the Saharan areas of Africa, and is used to perfume clothes and fabrics but it doesnt make its way into the perfumes we wear. James Heeley Esprit du Tiger Technically, heliotropin the synthetic ingredient which recreates the heliotrope flower is a member of the aldehyde family of chemicals, and was first discovered in 1885. The sweetness of the violets deep blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of heaven, Seems colord by its skies, wrote Byron. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Cherry Blossom But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. Smell is gorgeous. for the sheer architecture of the flowers they use it they. The sweetness of the violets deep blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of,! A process of fermentation takes place that releases the incomparable fragrance architecture of the flowers offer up an essential which! 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